|08-27-2008, 11:05 AM||#31|
Join Date: Aug 2008
Is there any special tape or material to use when making intricate camo patterns or other details on vehicles? I have a really cool idea for a HISS but executing it is going to be a real challenge. And what method do you guys prefer for painting large areas of plastic? Spray paint? Air brush?
|08-28-2008, 10:49 AM||#32|
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Woodbridge, VA
|08-28-2008, 11:09 AM||#33|
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Austin, TX
|08-28-2008, 11:41 AM||#34|
Free the Punisher
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: being held in a special containment center at the bottom of Lake Michigan
What would be the best method of cutting a HISS Tank apart? If it's feasable, I'd want to seperate the cockpit, and split the tread base, and possibly take other portions apart as well.
Forget it Jake, it's Hisstank.
Eagle Force needs STANDS! Please Pledge for Santini:
|08-28-2008, 03:20 PM||#35|
JOES BEFORE HOES
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Westland, MI
- DO NOT PUT ACETONE ON YOUR FIGURES!!!...this will melt them/turn them glossy...
- i've found that on the harder plastic on Joes, the enamal paint tends to make the plastci britle over time...some of my first customs were made with enamal (before i learned the error of my ways) and now, almost a year later, the pieces are crumbly...
- spliting torsos is best done with the deckard method...
- windex works as thinner for acrylics
|08-28-2008, 04:03 PM||#36|
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Rhode Island
I figured I can give some supply recommendation. If you're too lazy to get green stuff (like me), I suggest using super sculpey. It's great to work with on Joes. I use it on every custom I do that requires sculpting. Example. http://www.hisstank.com/forum/g-i-jo...blowtorch.html
There's a few methods to hardening this stuff on joes. A lot of people place the figure into a boiling pot of water for 5 minutes. I figured out a better method. Put the piece you sculpted under a hair dryer for 5 minutes and that will harden it just well as any other method.(the hardening time varies) It'll feel kinda soft until you put in cold water, or cold air. I used this on blowtorch and a few other figures, plus you can paint over it.
|08-28-2008, 04:17 PM||#37|
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: SD, CA
The only way to do skin tones accurately is to mix.
Start with a Tan base. Any tan works. Add a little bit of brown to darken if going for a darker skin tone. Then add small but equal amounts of yellow and red to bring a nice hue to it. from there, just lighten with white, and you're all set.
There are several other things here I wanted to comment on, but can't pull quotes from everywhere, it's too much work.
1. Testors enamels are oil based, not water based as one person suggested.
2. Tamiya paints are water based, but they should be thinned with isopropyl alcohol. Thinning with water will result in less than spectacular finishes. Cleaning brushes with just water will result in residue build up.
3. Model glue is supposed to melt plastic, that's the point. It bonds the two surfaces together.
4. The plastic used in joes has a higher petroleum content than plastic model kits. it makes for a PVC that's flexible and less prone to breakage. I have not come across an adhesive that works for this type of plastic except cyanoacrylate.
5. Complex camo patterns are always done best with an airbrush, but seeing as not everybody has access to that, consider hand-painting it. You have better control of the lines than with a spray can (overkill in terms of coverage), and can make it look decent if you take your time and thin the paint properly. following up with dry-brushing and weathering, and you end up with something that looks almost as good as airbrushed.
|08-29-2008, 10:54 AM||#38|
Cobra Alley Viper
Join Date: Feb 2008
Hey guys, Ive been thinking about trying to do dios, dont really have a good idea of how to do them. In particular Im interested in doing an urban one, with ruined walls, cars. Any suggestions?
I assume you just use a large peice of wood as the base.
|08-29-2008, 11:01 AM||#39|
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Rhode Island
It would be best to start with a wooden base, and attach a cardboard box to it styled to what you want the building to look like. Then I encased the box in plaster, making sure I applied it to look like a messed up building(so not nicely smooth). Then get some spray-paint for a solid color and I hand-painted the rest. hope it helps. For ruined cars I suggest buying a car model kit and go crazy on it to make it look like it's been in the middle of a battle field.
Last edited by MTN; 08-29-2008 at 11:06 AM..
|08-29-2008, 11:06 AM||#40|
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: LI, NY
Ronnie dobbs !!!! Lol
looking for SIDESHOW LEGENDARY SCALE MARVEL BUSTS--THOR,APOC,VENOM,DOOM,RED AND GOLD IRON MAN
MY B/S/T :
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