cracked a windshield - I need advice!

[Cmdr_Y]

I accidentally cracked the canopy on a custom plane I'm working on. Any advice on how to best fix it?

It's clear plastic - so if I superglue it and somehow manage to not get that foggy look, it'll have the seam down the side, rather asymmetrical.

The best suggestion I've got is to try gluing it, if it doesn't look good, paint or tint it very dark to cover up the break.

Anyone have any other ideas? Any experience with this particular problem?

[Ford Prefect]

I've done that before and fixed it. Glue the parts together using as little CA as possible and leave the part upside down to set up so you don't create a hood for the fumes to fog up on the inside. The next step just takes time and patients. Wet sand the area with increasing grit until pretty much all scratches are gone. For the final step you'll need to make sure the part is perfectly clean and dip it in Pledge Floor Care Finish (formerly Future Floor wax). It's best if you can glue a tab on the canopy somewhere that can be removed later to hold the part after dipping it in the finish. Leave the part hanging for about 24 hours in a clean dust free spot for the finish to fully cure. If there are still some blemishes just repeat the process.

[DarkSkyMind]

Rub Some Bacon On it - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wSReSGe200A)

[theprocess]

Rub Some Bacon On it - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wSReSGe200A)

Please don't waste this guys time with your uneducated advice. Only Turkey Bacon works on clear plastics.

Regular bacon is for eating only!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[gijoeforlife]

I've done that before and fixed it. Glue the parts together using as little CA as possible and leave the part upside down to set up so you don't create a hood for the fumes to fog up on the inside. The next step just takes time and patients. Wet sand the area with increasing grit until pretty much all scratches are gone. For the final step you'll need to make sure the part is perfectly clean and dip it in Pledge Floor Care Finish (formerly Future Floor wax). It's best if you can glue a tab on the canopy somewhere that can be removed later to hold the part after dipping it in the finish. Leave the part hanging for about 24 hours in a clean dust free spot for the finish to fully cure. If there are still some blemishes just repeat the process.

I wouldn't even do the CA, too risky, and if you ge a run your screwed.

I'd use the future floor polish(as shown) and use a paint bursh and brush it over the crack.

Then once that dries do the dip method as ford mentioned


*EDIT* after looking at the pic, the future wouldn't be enough to keep it together. I'd use 30 minute epoxy and get it only on the edges of the cracked parts,then piece them back together

[Python_Puckman]

I've done that before and fixed it. Glue the parts together using as little CA as possible and leave the part upside down to set up so you don't create a hood for the fumes to fog up on the inside. The next step just takes time and patients. Wet sand the area with increasing grit until pretty much all scratches are gone. For the final step you'll need to make sure the part is perfectly clean and dip it in Pledge Floor Care Finish (formerly Future Floor wax). It's best if you can glue a tab on the canopy somewhere that can be removed later to hold the part after dipping it in the finish. Leave the part hanging for about 24 hours in a clean dust free spot for the finish to fully cure. If there are still some blemishes just repeat the process.

I've seen recommendations for that stuff a LOT on here recently. Is it only good for clear parts or does it have other applications (other than using on floors)?

[Gung.Heaux]

safelite repair, safelite replace.

sorry.

[DarkSkyMind]

Turkey bacon, now why didn't I think of that? Sorry I have no real advice for fixing the problem..

[gijoeforlife]

I've seen recommendations for that stuff a LOT on here recently. Is it only good for clear parts or does it have other applications (other than using on floors)?

use it as a clear coat before applying waterslide decals(the get air pockets, called "silvering" if not used over a perfectly smooth finish)

[TofuJesse]

what is that canopy from? I can't tell from the pic

[Cmdr_Y]

I'm sorry if this is a stupid question, but what is "CA"?

The canopy came from a BBI Combat Command A-10 that I'm converting into a Powerglide Alt Mode. I still have a lot of work to do, but attached is a WIP pic.

[Ford Prefect]

CA is cyanoacrylate or super glue.

[Midnightinferno]

If that powerglide goes missing it wasn't me.

[Cmdr_Y]

Since I got your attention for a minute - what's your take on decals for this?

Should I got the minimum like the original Generation One Powerglide - a couple of autobot sigils, or should I go all-out with a more modern approach?

[Scoop]

safelite repair, safelite replace.

sorry.

Damn someone beat me to it... LOL!

[miscreant]

I've seen recommendations for that stuff a LOT on here recently. Is it only good for clear parts or does it have other applications (other than using on floors)?

Tightening loose joints.

[Zarana X]

You can use future to glue these together, but it wont be very strong. I'd use liquid model glue, and apply it with a toothpick, or the brush in the lid. Never use tube cement on clear parts (at least where you will see it). The Liquid glue should come in a bottle, and may have a brush in the cap. You can use a cement pen, but dab it on a piece of scrap, then transfer it to the part with a toothpick.
After that dries then use the Future on it.

[Zarana X]

I've seen recommendations for that stuff a LOT on here recently. Is it only good for clear parts or does it have other applications (other than using on floors)?

Several:

The Complete Future (http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html)

[Konigstiger]

Get a bottle of Testor's clear parts glue/parts builder.

It'll still be cracked, but it'll have a repair without the fogging.