Paint

[gyrapados]

So I was wondering what brand of acrylic paints you guys like to use for your customs. I've used model masters and it worked fine though it took several coats to cover the figure I was painting. Is there something better out there that you guys would recommend? If so it would be appreciated, as would a link to it as well. thanks!

[This I Command!]

Citadel paints:
Games Workshop (http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/catalog/landing.jsp?catId=cat440136a&rootCatGameStyle=paints-tools)

[CrimsonGuard101]

Testors Model Masters, works like a friggen charm.

[TTT]

Citadel paints:
Games Workshop (http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/catalog/landing.jsp?catId=cat440136a&rootCatGameStyle=paints-tools)

^^^

[LUCKYDUBE]

I have only used the paints at Wally World like FolkArt and apple barrel paints, let me tell you they both are "CRAP" for painting action figures. For all the guys using the better paint brands after your figure is done drying from multiple coats can you run your finger nail through the paint and it wont scratch off? cuz FolkArt and apple barrel paints come off like butter.

[gyrapados]

The Citadel paints look promising. My question is, ho w do I tell which ones are glossy and which ones are not? I don't want super shiny, slick looking paint jobs.

[CrimsonGuard101]

The Citadel paints look promising. My question is, ho w do I tell which ones are glossy and which ones are not? I don't want super shiny, slick looking paint jobs.

If they end up being to glossy/shiney you can always hit them with a dull coat. But most will tell you, I mean fire engine red is going to scream red, or traffic light green, this is why I like the testors stuff since a lot of it is used for miltiary/car models and they do a good job of explaining the type of paint it is intdned for. Citadel gets too much into all those comic book store type games and the paint names get pretty exotic quickly lol...like Grey Orc Green...well is it grey or is it green!

[Crimson Gord]

like the guys said before me, citadel makes really nice deep colors and all the colored washes to compliment them if that's something you're looking to get into.
tamiya makes certain shades that are unbeatable imo but as a whole, citadel and model masters are a little better.

just heard from my local comic shop owner the citadel is on the verge of discontinuing the 70+ colors they make and will be replacing them with 120+ new and improved ones.

[Crimson Gord]

The Citadel paints look promising. My question is, ho w do I tell which ones are glossy and which ones are not? I don't want super shiny, slick looking paint jobs.

i could be wrong but i think they are all flat colors.

[ozzie92]

Okay...don't mean to hijack this thread, and quick answer should do it. I THINK I know what people mean by "colored washes," but can someone give a quick explanation? I also like the model master acrylics, but haven't taken it to the next level yet. Still new to customizing, but jumping in with both feet for my 2nd figure...

[dbritt]

A wash is a very watery color, used to highlight or "lowlight" creases. You paint with your base color, a typical paint, then go over it with a wash. Because it is watery, it finds the creases and folds in clothing/muscles/etc., giving the figure more texture and shading.

I am about to start my first custom Joes. I've cut my teeth for years doing McFarlane sports figs and consider myself pretty good. I use Citadel paints. All of them are flat. I use Tamiya paints for helmets, because they are glossy (unless it actually says "Flat", ie Flat Red, Flat Black, Flat Yellow).

[Crimson Gord]

Okay...don't mean to hijack this thread, and quick answer should do it. I THINK I know what people mean by "colored washes," but can someone give a quick explanation? I also like the model master acrylics, but haven't taken it to the next level yet. Still new to customizing, but jumping in with both feet for my 2nd figure...

washes can be made at home by diluting acrylic paints with water or other means, but citadel has a wide array of colored washes so you don't have to fuss with the consistency. here's an example. i painted a cobra trooper using citadel mordian blue but i wanted added depth in the creases of his pants so i brushed in a generous amount of wash to those areas and when it dried there was the look of depth and wear.

[ozzie92]

Tanks! ;)

[Mermaniel]

I use Tamiya since theyre the easiest ones for me to find. I think they work awesome.

[fireflyguy]

I have only used the paints at Wally World like FolkArt and apple barrel paints, let me tell you they both are "CRAP" for painting action figures. For all the guys using the better paint brands after your figure is done drying from multiple coats can you run your finger nail through the paint and it wont scratch off? cuz FolkArt and apple barrel paints come off like butter.

I tried Apple Barrel paints once. And only once. Sucked.

I normally go with Testors because I get them at Hobby Lobby. Works nicely.

[GAAWAY]

I use Model Master mostly, but Formula P3 (which I picked up at a gaming shop) are also excellent to use. I would love to get more of them.

[gyrapados]

I use Model Master mostly, but Formula P3 (which I picked up at a gaming shop) are also excellent to use. I would love to get more of them.

where's the best place to get the P3 paint?

[starwarsgeek]

just heard from my local comic shop owner the citadel is on the verge of discontinuing the 70+ colors they make and will be replacing them with 120+ new and improved ones.

Not on the verge, it's done. And it's 145 colors, actually. Well... not really, since that 145 includes washes, glazes, additives, and several other gimmicky things they are trying to throw in now.

But that doesn't come close to the amount of colors available from brands like Reaper and Vallejo. Pretty much most paints that cost more than $1 for a big bottle are going to hold up pretty well for action figure painting - but make sure they are acrylic. Enamels won't react well to the soft plastic of action figures.

Reaper/Games Workshop/Vallejo/Tamiya/Model Master/P3/etc are going to run you $2.50 - $3 and up - per bottle - but it's worth it. It won't hurt to add a coat of matte or flat sealer afterwards, either.

BUT if you're going to be painting the joints and moveable parts, paint and sealer will never be enough. You need to dremel or sand those parts down to eliminate the rub, THEN paint them.

washes can be made at home by diluting acrylic paints with water or other means, but citadel has a wide array of colored washes so you don't have to fuss with the consistency. here's an example. i painted a cobra trooper using citadel mordian blue but i wanted added depth in the creases of his pants so i brushed in a generous amount of wash to those areas and when it dried there was the look of depth and wear.

Citadels are good, or you can do better and make your own. I use a variety of inks and additives - which took some time to get the perfect recipe - for my washes now, although I've actually stopped doing washes for the most part and prefer to actually paint the various shades of shadow and highlight onto the figure instead of washing and glazing. But to each their own. FWIW I sell some pre-made washes of my own making in my eBay store [/shameless plug].

[Crimson Gord]

Not on the verge, it's done. And it's 145 colors, actually. Well... not really, since that 145 includes washes, glazes, additives, and several other gimmicky things they are trying to throw in now.

But that doesn't come close to the amount of colors available from brands like Reaper and Vallejo. Pretty much most paints that cost more than $1 for a big bottle are going to hold up pretty well for action figure painting - but make sure they are acrylic. Enamels won't react well to the soft plastic of action figures.

Reaper/Games Workshop/Vallejo/Tamiya/Model Master/P3/etc are going to run you $2.50 - $3 and up - per bottle - but it's worth it. It won't hurt to add a coat of matte or flat sealer afterwards, either.

BUT if you're going to be painting the joints and moveable parts, paint and sealer will never be enough. You need to dremel or sand those parts down to eliminate the rub, THEN paint them.



Citadels are good, or you can do better and make your own. I use a variety of inks and additives - which took some time to get the perfect recipe - for my washes now, although I've actually stopped doing washes for the most part and prefer to actually paint the various shades of shadow and highlight onto the figure instead of washing and glazing. But to each their own. FWIW I sell some pre-made washes of my own making in my eBay store [/shameless plug].

thanks for the additional info buddy. what is this glaze you speak of, i'm curious now, lol ?

[starwarsgeek]

A glaze is similar to a wash, but not as thin. Thinner than paint, but not as thin as a wash. Let's put it this way. Personally, I thin all my paints. When I'm painting with paint, I'll use a 1:1 ratio (paint:flow improver). When I'm doing a glaze, I'll use a 1:3:3 ratio (paint:glaze medium:flow improver). When I used to make washes, I would do a 1:6:6 ratio (paint:flow improver:water).

The glaze is a thinner paint that goes over the painted surface to add highlight and shadow, but allows the undercoat to show through. It's kind of hard to explain, let me see if I can find a website that explains it better than I can, lol

[starwarsgeek]

Here's a decent website that I found after googling for a second. I honestly didn't read all the info, but this appears to cover most of the basics, and probably better than I could explain it.

http://home.wowway.com/~tinweasel/techniques.html

A lot of the techniques that a lot of painters use are the same as the techniques for painting miniatures for wargaming.

Another good use for a glaze would be to show something that was glowing, like, say a sword. You can paint the sword with your metallic paint, and then slowly add glaze colors on top of that. The glaze layer is so thin that it won't start to really show up until you've done 2 -3 layers of it, but by making the layer start further from the bottom each time, the color will intensify and make it appear that the sword is glowing as it goes from the handle to the blade tip.

[starwarsgeek]

And here's a post and a short video that shows the new Citadel range:

What's New Today | Games Workshop (http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/wnt/blog.jsp?pid=2000010-gws)

But honestly, buying a lot of those glazes and things is almost a waste of money unless you really don't know what you're doing. I admit, I've used - and still have - the Citadel and some P3 washes - but really, it's like paying full price for a 1/4 bottle of paint (maybe even less) and some water/additive. You can make your own for a fraction of the cost.

[Crimson Gord]

And here's a post and a short video that shows the new Citadel range:

What's New Today | Games Workshop (http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/wnt/blog.jsp?pid=2000010-gws)

But honestly, buying a lot of those glazes and things is almost a waste of money unless you really don't know what you're doing. I admit, I've used - and still have - the Citadel and some P3 washes - but really, it's like paying full price for a 1/4 bottle of paint (maybe even less) and some water/additive. You can make your own for a fraction of the cost.

well that will be the next progression in my painting skill set. there's a lot of great info in your last two posts, thanks buddy !

[Adamantite]

And here's a post and a short video that shows the new Citadel range:

What's New Today | Games Workshop (http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/wnt/blog.jsp?pid=2000010-gws)



Oh man I'm loving what I'm seeing. And hopefully this will also mean stores will discount the current paint line.

There's a new Citdel Paint Bundle... for $536? Ouch.
Citadel Paint Bundle | Games Workshop (http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/catalog/productDetail.jsp?catId=&prodId=prod1560002a)

[Mythic]

Citadel paints:
Games Workshop (http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/catalog/landing.jsp?catId=cat440136a&rootCatGameStyle=paints-tools)

^ This

I also have some OLD (almost 20 year old) Ral Partha paints. They are still good because even when not in use, I would still check them every few months and add a few drops of DISTILLED water to keep them alive.

I use a Game Color "squid pink" because is seems to be the only decent pink I can find (smells odd though).

As far as washes, I make mine. At Hobby Lobby and other good art stores you can get a pack of like a dozen 1 oz. paint pots for a few bucks. I mix my washes in the pots to save them. I use a 1 part paint to 3 parts DISTILLED WATER mix for my washes. Using tap water can often lead to bad results because of minerals in most tap water. Most grocery stores carry distilled water and a gallon jug will last virtually forever. Hehe.

I also thin my paints just a little with a few drops of DISTILLED water. Several thin coats is better than 1 thick coat.


And on a side note, Hobby Lobby has some good brush sets that seem to be on sale for like 40-50% monthly. Like $5-$15 for 4-5 brushes (before any sale discount). I literally have like 30 brushes I use (including those retired to drybrush status) because I set some aside for certain colors. Like I have a few brushes I use ONLY with white paint and others ONLY for red and orange, for example, to make certain there is no possible chance for any sort of color bleed from the brush at all.

[GAAWAY]

where's the best place to get the P3 paint?

You know, our old stomping ground : Phoenix Games in Buford.

[gyrapados]

You know, our old stomping ground : Phoenix Games in Buford.

I haven't been to their new location. I'd have to use my navigation app to even find it.

[jpnX]

i tend to find that it depends on the project i hope between panzer aces ,model color from vejo ,and walmart's folk art