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Thread
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DH's Custom Lifeline, Med Alert and Dial Tone
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09-11-2009, 12:48 PM
Shipwreck
Hector Delgado
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: South FL
Posts: 11,442
Quote:
Originally Posted by
M_renegade
A-ha, i fugured so.
Get some acrilics. They're cheaper than hobby paint, but work the same.
Since acrilics can be diluted with water, you'll have an easier time to make details. And they get a good hold onto the enamels coat. Use them to sharpen the edges.
For example, paint the pockets with enamels, but don't paint close to the borders, do it with the acrilics once the enamels are dry.
Acrilics are way easier to work with. Enamels get sticky in a matter of seconds, that's why is so difficult to paint details with them.
Btw, you run with luck.
The chemical components of enamels are tricky, because some plastics wouldn't dry. This is based on the colour the plastic has. Luckily for you, red has no problems with enamels.
So far, the problems appeared with grey, black and blue plastic.
Of course, if the plastic has a coat of factory-paint, you'll be safe to work with.
This happens only in the softer plastic zones.
Example:
I was painting some CC legs with enamels. The lower legs didn't dry, while the upper legs worked fine.
if I might add to this Ren, since I know what your talkin about.. you use the tamiya acrylics ? I use those plus Gamesworkshop Acrylics when I do models. And I've come to find that even with the plastic, paint aps can also best work if applied in light coats, such as dry brushing. Figues like the G.I.Joe base for me had always been difficult, due to the fact I like working with the painting processes in stages for base colors. but at the same time a good primer can also help in the resulting final steps of a project.
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